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Pirates & Voodoo: Legends from the islands of Culebra and Vieques in Puerto Rico
- Nestor Arce
- May 31
- 8 min read
The island of Puerto Rico is typically recognized for its incredible nature, world-class cuisine, and old-world colonial monuments, but oftentimes it overshadows its sister islands to the East. While both the islands of Culebra and Vieques may not have the same level of recognition with travelers as its main counterpart, the common adventurer would do themselves a disfavor by counting them out of their expeditions. With legendary tales of pirates, lost treasures, black magic and murder, the islands of Culebra and Vieques hold their own in notoriety when it comes to its local myths and legends.
Located just off the Eastern Coast of Puerto Rico, the islands of Culebra and Vieques (located seventeen miles and about six miles from the main coast, respectively) are considered part of the commonwealth of the main island. Some of the earliest records one can find on the islands is from 1493 during Christopher Columbus’s second expedition into the “new world”. However, centuries before, the Taíno people had migrated over from the Western part of South America and settled across the islands we now know as the Greater Antilles in the Atlantic Ocean. Finding a wealth of resources, the island of Culebra soon developed a reputation with travelers, mainly during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when it had become a headquarters for piracy.
Pirates would often stop in Culebra to gather, hunt, and as legends state to this day, hide their treasures and valuables that were often pillaged from other privateer ships while out at sea. In fact, it is said that much of this treasure is still hidden somewhere inside of the smaller island within Culebra known as Cayo Pirata (Pirate Cay).
One of the more legendary pirate figures who frequented the “hideout within the hideout” in the region was Roberto Cofresí, considered the last great pirate of the Caribbean.
The Last Pirate of the Caribbean
Cofresí is a sort of “Robin Hood” figure in Puerto Rican history. Born on June 17th, 1791, Cofresí hailed from the town Cabo Rojo on the northwest of Puerto Rico. Coming from an economically-challenged, but well-respected family and facing harsh economic and political hardship during the turn of the century, Cofresí only saw one way up – and so he chose a career as a swashbuckler.
For about two years, Cofresí and his crew of Caribbean Merry Men raided all sorts of ships, including vessels from the world's biggest empires at the time. Preferring speed over strength, Cofresí and his crew were able to make light-work of even some of the more intimidating ships. He was able to accomplish such daring feats with one simple tool: a small single-mast six-gunned sloop called the Ana, but other stories say that he eventually renamed the ship to “El Mosquito” after swooping it from another sea-farer as all good pirates tend to do.
The earliest record of one of Cofresí’s raids comes from a letter published in the St. Thomas Gazette. Dated July 5th, 1823 and delivered to the publisher from Aguadilla, Puerto Rico, the letter described a daring heist aboard a brigantine loaded with items such as herbs and coffee. After ordering its crew to unload the booty, the letter also details that Cofresí and his cohorts (which also included his brothers), killed the entire crew and sank the ship. One major detail the letter misreported on was the death of Cofresí himself, mistaking his own demise with one of his other mates. This simple mistake only propelled the legend of Cofresí’s exploits and his infamy across the Caribbean.
When taking a break from his guerilla-styled ocean raids, Cofresí often hid himself, his crew, and El Mosquito in Mosquito Bay in the southern end of Vieques due to its narrow entrance that would make it difficult for pursuers to follow. However, even the bravest of commanders would not dare enter Mosquito Bay due to rumors of its waters being “cursed” as those who sailed by the area witnessed pulsating blue waters at night. Coming from poverty himself, Cofresí was often known to be generous with those who struggled as he did growing up, and so he would freely share some the spoils with those in need which most likely helped him win public favor against the governing forces at large who had by now placed bounties on him and his crew. But, as often as it was the case with those who took up the pirate’s life, it was typically one of living fast and dying young.
In 1825 at only thirty-three years of age and being the last of the major piracy threats in the region, Roberto Cofresí was captured after Spanish forces, along with other nation allies, ambushed El Mosquito just off of the coast of Guyama, located in the southern part of Puerto Rico. After being run ashore and losing a few of his men during what is said to have been a confrontation that lasted nearly an hour, Cofresí and his crew fled into the swampy marshes where they were chased down and arrested. Ironically, one of the ships credited with the takedown of Cofresí was the San José y Animas, a ship that Cofresí previously attacked during one of his exploits which was used as a decoy during the operation.
On the morning of March 29th of the same year, Cofresí and the remaining men of his crew were read their last rites and executed by firing squad at the Castillo San Felipe fort (known more commonly as “El Morro”) in San Juan. Despite his infamous reputation, Roberto Cofresí’s legacy has endured throughout the generations. Today in Cofresí’s very own hometown of Cabo Rojo stands a statue of the last pirate of the Caribbean to remind locals and visitors of a man who dared defy the odds, but also whose very own hubris caused his own downfall. As for the “cursed waters” in Vieques, science has later confirmed that the cause of the strange glow is said to have been microorganisms known as dinoflagellates. Today, this part of Vieques once believed to have been cursed is now known as Bioluminescent Bay, with millions of travelers having experienced the natural beauty of its glowing blue waters which is best seen on a scenic evening boat ride. In 2006, it was entered into the Guiness World Book of Records as being the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world.
The legends surrounding both the sister islands of Culebra and Vieques do not stop here, however. There is one more tale that we will venture into, but its details are much more ghastly and curious.
The Governor of Culebra
It was 1876 and many had found it a peculiar thing as to why John Stevens had not returned correspondence to the governing body in the nearby island of Vieques after many weeks, but the discovery of his mysterious disappearance soon became very apparent – in the most morbid way. Although details about who found John Stevens in his gruesome state are scarce and often conflicting, the details of his death are not. It is said that John Stevens was a British man who originated from the island of Tortola. Although records of his birthplace or origin are sparse and possibly even unknown, we can assume that Stevens was a British man since he was a representative of the British Empire. Working in allegiance with the Spanish Empire, Stevens was given permission and appointed to oversee operations on the island of Culebra as a “Black Overseer” (one in charge of slave operations and labor). This responsibility entailed the conservation of the local ecosystem from being hijacked and abused by outside interests and also closely monitoring trade in and out of Culebra. Despite no official title being given to him by either the British or Spanish, Stevens soon assumed the self-appointed title of “Governor of Culebra” and its “captain”. Despite a seemingly egotistical gesture, he nevertheless was well-respected within the local community.
However, it seemed like not everyone in Culebra shared in the sentiment.
After weeks of failing to communicate back to his own superiors, it is said that John Stevens was found dead on his property, but the details of his death still haunt the island to this day.
Steven’s body was found cut to pieces across the front of his hut, with his heart and bowels placed inside of clay pots. In an attempt to curse his soul from ever finding eternal rest, the rumors state that those who carried out such a vicious ritualistic act had ended the “Governor of Culebra’s” life due to his abusive enforcement of colonial rule on the small island. When Spanish authorities investigated the murder further, they were able to find those who had murdered Stevens.
It was reported that a group of twenty-one men, ironically also from the island of Tortola, admitted to the gruesome killing and were sentenced to hard labor at a sugar plantation in Vieques. However, an international uproar in the case led to the men being freed soon after due to reports of the maltreatment of the prisoners.
As to the motives of the murder of Stevens, many theories arose, including a confrontation that transpired between Stevens and the large group of men after they were caught stealing resources from the island. Others tend to lean more towards personal motives as the men and Stevens had both lived on the island of Tortola before migrating to Culebra. Could the incident have been inspired by some unresolved conflict that erupted between some of his killers and Stevens at some point in the past prior to the horrific incident? As of now, there are no definitive answers, but perhaps one day we may dig up more on this chilling mystery.
From grand pirate adventures to bizarre murder mysteries involving the occult, the island of Puerto Rico and its sisters are filled with many rousing tales, but stories like the infamous pirate Roberto Cofresí and the ritualistic murder of John Stevens tend be missed by many who visit the Island of Enchantment due to their mostly off-shore settings. However, if one dares to dig a little deeper, they will discover tales of wonderment, darkness, and caution of those who took on a life of adventure just a bit too far.
